Front-wheel-drive vehicles transfer the power from the transmission to the wheels through drive-axle assemblies. These drive axles have constant-velocity (CV) joints at each end. The joints are protected by rubber boots that keep contaminants outside and lubricant inside. Cracks or tears in the boot can lead to CV joint failure, as can normal wear and tear. Signs of worn or damaged CV joints include lubricant leaks, clicking sounds during turning, clunks during acceleration or abrupt deceleration and frontend vibrations.
Drive axle boots and CV joints can be serviced. However, the job often requires special tools. Because the drive axles must be removed to service the joints anyway, replacing the entire assembly with a rebuilt unit is worth considering. It's certainly quicker and easier than rebuilding the boots and joints. Depending on the vehicle, a replacement drive-axle assembly can be surprisingly affordable, and removal/replacement is entirely achievable for the average do-it-yourselfer mechanic.
The accompanying photos show a typical drive-axle replacement. Some vehicles such as the one shown don't require the caliper and rotor to be removed; others do. For details on your vehicle (especially fastener torque specs), consult a service manual.
Step 1
Drive axles in front-wheel-drive vehicles have many parts. Their boots and CV joints eventually wear out. (The two prominent joint styles are tri-pot, shown here, and double-offset.)
Step 2
Replacing the entire drive axle assembly is much more efficient than servicing the boots and CV joints. We borrowed the necessary specialized tools – spindle-nut socket and tie-rod-end puller – from the local parts store.
Step 3
First, raise and secure the vehicle, then remove the tire and wheel. The spindle nut is often “staked” or secured with locking tabs. Use a chisel or screwdriver to unlock the nut.
Step 4
Use the appropriate-sized spindle-nut socket on a breaker bar to loosen the nut. A prybar or large screwdriver helps hold the hub in place.
Step 5
On some vehicles, the caliper and rotor must be removed. Then separate the lower control arm from the damper fork (if equipped).
Step 6
Remove the cotter pin, then unbolt the lower control-arm ball joint from the steering knuckle with a tie-rod-end puller. Swing the knuckle and hub outward until the drive axle is free.
Step 7
Carefully pry the drive axle outward at the transmission.
Step 8
Remove the old drive axle.
Step 9
Insert the replacement shaft then reverse the rest of the disassembly process.
Step 10
Make sure to use a new cotter pin when reattaching the lower ball joint to the steering knuckle.
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